This is a very nice article from 1990 that I found for free on the Times website which is paid for by advertising. It would be interesting for Francine to return to Ohrid to see what changes have come to pass.
MACEDONIA'S STONY STRENGTH - New York Times:
By FRANCINE PROSE; FRANCINE PROSE'S MOST RECENT BOOK IS A COLLECTION OF SHORT STORIES, ''WOMEN AND CHILDREN FIRST'' (FAWCETT).
Published: March 4, 1990
On the hill above the old city of Ohrid, in southern Yugoslavia, is an overgrown park, half reclaimed by forest and crowned by the monumental, ruined fortress of Tsar Samuil, who during the 10th century created a Macedonian empire extending from the Danube to the Adriatic. The park is full of ruins: crumbling walls, rusted swing sets, the roofless Sveti Pantelejmon, which, like so many Yugoslav churches, served as a mosque for much of its life."